Adrien Trivier (Gem specialist and dealer)
Diamonds are indeed forever but recently, I’ve been witnessed in very high demand in gemstones. Do you think diamonds will rise again throughout the years?
Colored stones (Emerald and Sapphires) demand is increasing for a few years now. If you know Gemfield, they are excelling in this field, they are among the best gemstone miners and dealers. They are investing a lot on real estate properties in a lot of countries in Africa and Asia but they are waiting for the moment of the stability of the country. I think they are going towards DeBeers old vision of diamonds with the traceability of gemstones developing a kind of “Kimberly Process” for colored stones.
Gems and diamonds are being treated as we speak to rise quality. How do you think companies deal with this problem, or should I say opportunity?
When we talk about treatments, we can talk about millions of different kind of treatments. For example, laser drill diamond treated is for a different public than real diamond depending on the budget people want. Nowadays, you can have a diamond for 100$ and another the same size for a few thousands of dollars. We have a lot of different offer, it all depends to whom it is go- ing to be directed.
Did you previously owned or do you currently own an antique piece of jewelry? Are you thinking of actually melting it down and use the gemstones for something else, selling it or even keep it for some other occasions?
I got multiple old pieces either from my own savings or by heritage. For the moment, I do not think I am going to use it much. For the moment, I won’t do anything but in a few years, I would like to maybe recut some stones and design jewelry around it. But I hope there is a way to recut old-cutter stones because if I cut a 5.05 carat stone, I would lose money ending up with a less than 5 carat stone. I lose a lot of value and that I think most people won’t like it, so this is why they keep it that way hoping it will be trendy.
The Internet has been influencing prices and the way people sell gems. Do you see that the internet is a possible threat to the market demands or rather an opportunity?
People (clients) are informed by the internet more and more on manufacturing processes, cost prices range, quality, where stones come from, etc… I think that the internet is going to revolutionize the gemstone field precisely providing additional information as the traceability of stones are required nowadays due to ethics. Due to the big groups defending this ethic matter, small dealers will have to defeat it. Taking an example with “DeBeers”, big stone providers are investing with jewelry due to their money and power they have due to their marketing strategies. Their jewelries work better than there a stone business that was excelling a few years back. Time changes, the only road to success is to adapt.
Asia has been a major source for major gems across the world. Do you work with Asian countries, for example, China and Japan to source your gemstones? It has been mentioned that Asia companies buy more and more the best quality gems in the market. Do you think that Asia will be one of the major actors in the near future? Do you see HK and Singapore being a future gem hub?
In Asia (India and China), there is the biggest percentage of goods coming in from major mining countries and coming out to most stones hubs such as Antwerp, NY, Dubai, etc… Singapore and Thailand are among these countries that have a lot of money to invest. Bangkok and HK also are both big hubs for gems education such as NY, London, and Geneva a long time ago. Bangkok is a big hub where the best stones found in mining countries are found and can be bought in auction houses or in an earlier stage, cut into wonderful gems. There is sometimes a shortage of time between the findings and the sale. Everything is faster now. One thing for sure is that the US is booming too with the highest new designers coming in investing a lot on sustainability and ethics.
What is most important in nowadays business?
The most important nowadays is the traceability and the ethics (sustainability) such as gold fair trade and stones mining. Marketing also plays a big role. Look at DeBeers, they created a few years ago the marketing of “diamond is forever” and for few years, they had the copyright of engagement rings and now you can see every couple in the world having a diamond ring to commemorate their relationship.
Would you sell your old Cartier ring you don’t wear or keep it?
If you have a Van Cleef or Cartier jewel, if money is important to you, of course, you have a better chance to actually sell it and make more money than actually use the stones for something else. Buying them as second-hand jewelry have a better chance of living longer than smaller designers. Signature of a big brand and a representation of an important époque in history is much important. Everything is surrounded by the brand and what the brand stands for among consumers. Values of stones are generally low- er than the brand identity even if the stone is the rarest stone ever found. Even the value of the stone sold by big companies is way higher than the real price of the diamond. It is called “copy-paste margin” in my business. But, if you had an old piece of jewelry, you could sell it or just melt down the gold and reuse the stones for something else. That won’t change much the value of the jewelry and what you had. But if you have something from a big brand, it is more interesting to keep it that way.